note

fit notes

A running cheat-sheet of the fit adjustments I've had to use for my 155cm frame

sewingfitting

some common adjustments across patterns I’ve made:

Upper front

  • CF vertical wedge: hollow upper chest makes fabric stand away/pool at center-front.
    • ~2–2.5cm total on regular bodices (Janine), ~5cm on negative ease garments like sports bras (Power Bra). Taper to 0 top and bottom. Confirmed on Honeygirl, Janine, Trapeze, Power Bra — anticipate it on every fitted bodice, confirm exact amount on toile
  • Horizontal chest tuck: short upper torso vs the ~166–168cm draft.
    • ~28–30mm total (Honeygirl); back usually needs slightly more out than front
  • Neckline width reduction: 10mm inward from each shoulder end, centers unchanged (38cm shoulders are narrower than drafts)
  • Sloped shoulder: outer shoulder point down 8mm, re-blend armhole
  • Dart check: apex-to-apex 19.5–20.5cm is narrow; redirect/shorten dart points that aim low or wide

Length

Patterns draft for 166–168cm, I’m 155cm)

  • Bodices: consistent shortening (short waist); Ava needed ~3cm total
  • Shorts: 2cm at lengthen/shorten line, never at hem
  • Skirts: ~10cm for mid-calf, own shorten line in lower half
  • Straps: always shorten (Power Bra −8cm, Cartesian to 50cm)
  • Coverage/neckline heights on bras: pick the lowest option

Waist & bottoms

  • Vertical rule: waist tightness is usually placement (natural waist sits above belly button). Add +1.5cm vertical between waist and hip
  • Size by hip, then grade waist UP 1–2 sizes on fitted bottoms
  • Wovens with no stretch: size up one from the exact-hip-match size
  • +5mm side-seam waist ease on fitted closures — but SKIP on wrap skirts (the overlap already gives forgiveness; deepen back darts instead)
  • Back rise: +0.5–1cm on fitted bottoms

Underwear

  • CB back rise tuck — ~1.5cm horizontal tuck ~3cm below waistband at center back, taper to sides.
    • Confirmed on Hadal, No Show briefs

Back & arms

  • Broad lats: +0.5cm at side seam underarm on fitted sleeveless wovens (never size up globally)
  • Sleeves: keep at bust size, taper from elbow down if pooling (Ava)

Sizing principles

  • Check finished garment measurements, never just the body chart
  • Fitted knits: minimum +1–2cm positive bust ease; fitted wovens: ~8cm minimum
  • A cup in sewing terms — no FBA ever; occasionally SBA on fitted wovens

nearby

note greenstyle power bra